My board was Rosewood, but it was about the same level of brown as in that picture when I started. I'll post a shot of the board in my RG8 when I get off work if you want to see what the ink job looks like. I kind of like how they turned out, kind of ghostly-grey looking, but the point is that I was not intending to alter my inlays and I wound up altering my inlays. The OCD-like level of attention I was paying to that dye job was still not enough.Īside from the shenanigans with the neck, the inlays were also an issue as mentioned here. It cleaned up fine with some mineral spirits, but still. I'm not exactly a careless person either, I'm ridiculously attentive to my guitars. I taped off the neck / shoulders / binding of my guitar and a drop or two must have found it's way under that tape, because when I finished with the board and removed the tape there were ink smears alllll over the neck of the guitar. It worked okay, nothing special but it was a major pain in the ass getting it done. In all honesty, India Ink will give you the blackest most uniform look, it's just a pain to work with and I wouldn't recommend it unless you know what the inlays and binding are made of and how to get the dye out of/off of them. Alternatively, if I need to use it, I'll go back and clean up the inlays with mixed down paint thinner and some micromesh. India ink (British English: Indian ink also Chinese ink) is a simple black or coloured ink once widely used for writing and printing and now more commonly used for drawing and outlining, especially when inking comic books and comic strips.India ink is also used in medical applications. If I'm working on guitars with minimal/no inlay or binding I'll use India Ink. This will pull some of the dye out, but if you dyed the board it'll still be uniformly black. Lastly, I'll then oil the board with mineral oil. I'll do this a few times for a nice even dye job. I brush it on with a foam brush, let it sit for about 10 minutes and wipe away. Now for the dye, I use Fiebings Black, it's nice and forgiving as far as inlays and binding.and hands. Rubbing that on the wood causes a chemical reaction to the tannins in the wood turning. The method calls to soak/dissolve the steel wool in vinegar for 24 hours, some people do it a week or more. It uses vinegar and any iron/steel material, usually steel wool. This is really best for the wide open spots. Ive been looking a LOT into that method for ebonizing. Avoid the binding and inlays the best you can. 49 Reaction score 12 1 I am staining a fretboard and i tried my best to mask everything off tightly but i think some of the ink seeped through the sides of the tape and i can see it on the side of the neck through the tape. You want to run it with the grain of the wood. Prep the wood surface with micromesh, anything between 20 grit will work. You want to dry out the board so it's more likely to absorb the dye as deeply and evenly as possible. Even if they guitar is new or looks like new. Here's what I do on 90% of guitars that I want the board black:Ĭlean the fretboard really good with some naphtha.
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